Small Talk With: Brooke Garber of Sidney Garber

What does the word legacy mean to you in the context of Sidney Garber?

I think of my father and his legacy every day; his name is on the door!

First and foremost, I think of his reverence for quality. He sought out the finest stones, the most talented craftsmen, and devoted an almost obsessive attention to detail—and I internalized all of that. We still work with the sons and daughters and, in two cases, the grandchildren of those original craftsmen, so that’s another layer of legacy.

I also learned that you can’t rest on your legacy any more than you can rest on your laurels. That’s why I’m constantly striving to modernize our jewelry by making it immensely comfortable and sensual. As a woman who wears, lives in, and expresses herself with jewelry, that’s my legacy. 

 Sidney Garber is one of the most cherished American jewelry houses. What about the brand do you feel contributes to its longevity?

First, thank you. That means a lot to me. Our longevity really is a credit to our commitment to creativity, craftsmanship, and comfort. 

Sidney Garber combines the highest quality and the most meticulous craftsmanship in comfortable, lightweight, flexible, adaptable, personal, and confident jewelry. It is jewelry designed by a woman for women to wear in distinctly individual ways.

How has the heritage craftsmanship been maintained over time and where do you see it evolving?

It seems as if real craftsmanship is disappearing in the jewelry world, replaced by an urge for efficiency. And efficiency is great, but it can’t come at the expense of the artisan. You might not be able to identify exactly why a piece of our jewelry feels so good when you slip it on, or why it moves so fluidly and gracefully. That comes from the touch of the craftsmen. They work with their hands to wrap the gold for each Rolling Bracelet. They finish the rings by hand, paying special attention to the inside so that the piece slips comfortably on the finger. The stones are set by hand to give them balance. Finally, each piece is polished by an artisan to produce an even smoothness. No machine can duplicate that quality. It gives each of our pieces a real sense of soul. 

Which styles do you feel represent the history of the brand best?

Rolling Bracelets

Our Rolling Bracelet was created in 1985 and is a signature of Sidney Garber. People have called them an icon and a classic—and those who wear them recognize each other and bond over them. That’s a real legacy. 

Zodiac Pendants and Rings

Our Zodiac Ring was originally made in Paris. A talented jeweler bought the model in 1960 and continued making the ring in New York City. We now work with the son of that craftsman. I added the small and large Zodiac pendants.The small can be engraved on the back with the date of a birthday or anniversary. The large Zodiac pendants have a secret on the back: A diamond constellation for that sign. 

Stacking

I’ve always loved wearing multiple pieces of jewelry together, and now that concept of stacking jewelry has become an enduring style. We make bracelets in gold with diamonds and some with enamel that are designed to be collected and stacked. We created our Scribble rings and now our Scribble bracelets that look like a stack of several but are connected in one easy piece.

Mixed golds

I never followed the rule that you shouldn’t mix metals. I love the way yellow gold looks with white and rose gold. It has energy. Some of our pieces combine three different color golds together. Our tricolor Rolling Bracelet and our Tre Collana necklaces use all 3 colors of gold. I love combining three Ophelia necklaces, one in yellow, one in white, and one in rose gold. I often wear a yellow gold and a white gold Eve bracelet or a rose and yellow or a rose and white intertwined. 

Feathers and Snakes

Feathers have a feeling of hope—as Emily Dickinson said, “Hope is the thing with feathers”—which I love. We have Feathers that Move earrings and Plume earrings in yellow and white gold with diamonds or with colored stones. They flutter on the ears beautifully. Snakes have been big in jewelry since antiquity. We have a Snake Lariat, and Serpente bracelets and rings. I think of them as our snake charmers.

Tell us about how donating your profits to charity became an important part of your legacy at Sidney Garber.

This is so close to my heart. And it’s pivotal to Sidney Garber’s identity. 

I feel very fortunate to be able to give my profits to causes that are meaningful to me: children’s mental health, the arts, racial justice, women’s reproductive rights, and ending gun violence. 

I also believe that this speaks to the soul of Sidney Garber, the business, and Sidney Garber, the man. It started with one man, my father, who was a pilot in WWII and was gunned down over enemy lines. After the war, he built a business that brought beauty to people’s lives. He cared deeply about his customers and about the craftsmen who made each piece. And I stood by his side and watched everything he did and how he did it with deep integrity.

It was personal. And it still is personal with me. I don’t believe in beauty unless it's attached to generosity.